Sigiriya is located in the Matale District in the Central Province of Sri Lanka, within the cultural triangle formed by Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Kandy, which includes five of the eight world heritage sites in Sri Lanka.
The night before, we had arrange with our lodge for a tuk tuk for a day hire to bring us to Polonnaruwa, 70Km away from where we were. For the whole day, it would cost us LKR5000. Our lodge also offered us the choice of taking their jeep for LKR6000 (an additional LKR1000) but since we are not doing any safaris. A tuk tuk will do. It took us about one and half hours to reach Polonnaruwa. Along the way, we pass by Minneriya National Park, famous for its wetlands, vast grasslands and large wild herds of elephants. We would surely love a visit if not for time constraint. On a side note, safaris can be organized with the guesthouse (and it is their own jeep!)
Yay setting off.
The ancient city of Polonnaruwa, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site was the island’s second great capital in the medieval era (11th-13th centuries A.D). The Cholas had shifted the capital from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa after the invasion and destruction of Anuradhapura in 993. In 1070, when local leader King Vijayabahu I defeated the Cholas invaders, he retained Polonnaruwa as his capital city. Under the reign of Parakramabahu (AD 1153-1186), trade and agriculture flourished. The Polonnaruva era was regarded as the golden age of agriculture in Sri Lanka.
Before heading into the ruins of the ancient city, you will need to purchase tickets at the counter which also houses the museum. The museum is a treasure house of priceless artifacts excavated from the medieval city of Polonnaruwa some dating back to early BC. It is a great place to start but i guess it would have been much more enriching if we visited at the end instead.
Our tuk tuk driver had told us there are about 25 sites to visit. I was like WHUT? 25? Thats too much for a day isnt it? but in the end we cleared everything within half a day. At the entrance into the ancient city, there will be guides selling their service for LKR800-1000. It would be useful but not necessary. the inscription plates were readable and in 3 languages, English, Sinhalese and Hindi. If you have been to Ang Kor Wat in Cambodia, the feeling is similar whereby after a while everything looks pretty much the same. ಥ‿ಥ
One can also rent a bicycle to explore the ancient city since Polonnaruwa is so much more compact. But just make sure you drink loads and loads of water because the weather is scorching hot. It will feel the intense burn on your skin. Especially for tourists who are not used to the tropics, it can be challenging. It is crazy because i come from Singapore with sunny weather all year round and i too find it unbearable.
Under the shades of the trees
Royal Palace of King Parakrama Bahu the Great
The 1st set of ruins we came across used to be a grand palace fit for kings. It was constructed as a seven storied palace and accordingly to historical chronicles, had a thousand rooms, which seems unlikely. Only 2 stories remain today.
What’s left of the palace
From the side
Council Chambers
The royal court of King Parakaramabahu sits on 3 layer of stone. The bottommost layer had its border decorated with elephants, 2nd layer with lions, uppermost layer with Vanama, an avatar of Vishnu. The entrance is guarded by two beautiful stone lions and within the compound you can see 4 rows of 12 stone pillars.
Check out the cravings on each layers
Moonstone
Guarded by stone lions
Kumara Pokuna
Nearby the Palace is this royal bath which is an essential feature in the royal complex design. A long narrow flights of stairs leads you down to the pond. A changing room adjunct to the pond can be seen in ruins today.
Kumara Pokuna
Siva Devale No 1
Between the royal palace and the Sacred Quadrangle is this hindi shrine. The shrine was built according to South Indian architectural traditions. You have to take off your shoes to enter.
Looking in from the outside
Sacred Quadrangle
The Vatadage
The quadrangle is a sacred area containing several medieval buildings housed on a raised platform within walls. The Vatadage, a 12th century stupa takes the pride of the place being the most beautiful and impressive. One set of stairways lead to the middle level, and from there you can get to the top-level through 4 different doorways (North South East West) Four buddhas sits in the central dagaba. Kinda reminds me of the Four Faced god Phra Phrom.
The Vatadage
Most well-preserved moonstone!
One buddha sits facing each side
Thuparama Image House
One of the most intact building that survived the Polonnaruva era. Not much is known about this structure.
Under restoration
Sath Mahal Prasada
This unique type of brick structure is a special type of Dageba (Pagoda) that mirrors the stupa style of SE Asia countries such as Thailand or Cambodia therefore it could be assumed that Sri Lanka had cultural links with these countries during the period.
Pabalu Vehera
Was a monastery with an unusually shaped stupa with 9 image house.
Rankot Vihara
Largest stupa in Polonnaruwa and 4th largest in the country. Constructed by the King Nishanka Malla (AD.1187 to 1196). Th architecture is amazing.
Looking very majestic
How huge it is!
Lankathilaka image house
Another amazing structure is this gigantic brick-built Buddha image house.The Buddha statue stand tall at 41 ft and is also completely made out of clay bricks. Feels myself being so tiny just looking at it.
Feels like a dwarf looking at it
Kiri Vehera
This stupa is the second biggest stupa in Polonnaruwa today. Also it is the only stupa to survive the 900 years of forces of nature and still is in the original condition.
Water drains out of this crocodile head
Gal Vihara
A rock temple in the middle of the ancient city. The colossal rock cute buddha images at Gal Vihara is the most celebrated site in Polonnaruva.
Good they made a shelter. Crazy hot weather that day.
This standing image is different from the rest of the buddhas as it has its arms folded and eyes closed.
Nelum Pokuna (Lotus Pond)
Recommend Attire
Since some sites are scared, you will only be allowed to enter if you are wearing clothes that covers your shoulders and knees. A scarf can also be used to cover it up. Some sites you will also need to remove your shoes. Hence wear comfortable footwear.
After finishing most of the ancient ruins sites (some were not accessible as restoration works is in progress), we are so hungry. My friend wanted local food again! On our tuk tuk recommendation, we came to this family restaurant which serve buffet. It was down a small dirt path. There was no signboard on the way in either. There were a variety of different curries and meats. We had our food in a wooden shed overlooking the farm and the food was simply yummylicioius. The owners were so friendly, they even gave us a tour of the kitchen! Every dish was cooked the traditional way with charcoal and firewood. Amazing.
Farm Lunch
Enjoying the view
Kitchen tour – Cook using traditional firewood!
With our tummies filled, it is time to move on to our next destination!
Pidurangala Rock
Pidurangala Rock is closely related to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress.
The Sigiriya Rock is where King Kasyapa ( AD477-495) built his palace. He also built a massive gatehouse in form of a lion to guard the entrance to his palace on top of the rocks. Hence this place is also known as the Lion Rock.
Pidurangala came into prominence when King Kasyapa ( AD477-495) relocated the buddhist monks who were then living at Sigiriya in order to make room for his palace. He compensated them by constructing new dwellings and contributed to the development of the temple and monastery.
Why did we choose Pidurangala over Sigiriya Rock? Partly because we refused to pay the extortionate price of USD35 entrance fee for the lion rock as compared to Pidurangala which is only LRK500. Sigiriya rock is so crowded that you have queue to climb up the stairs. There was almost no others when we reach the foot of Pidurangala Rock. But if we have the time and cash to spare, we would probably climb both since Sigiriya Rock has an important place in history and the ancient ruins of the palace is known to be exquisitely beautiful.
You drop off at the main road and climb up a flight of nicely constructed stairs to reach the entrance. There, the monks will come on out to collect the entrance fees of LKR500 per person. A few steps up and you come to the Pidurangala cave temple which was constructed into the Pidurangala Rock.
Cave Temple
Flights of steps
Climbing Pidurangala is definitely not easy especially the 2nd leg of the climb. On the right of the Cave Temple, you will find a flight of stone steps that takes you upwards. Irregular and steep, it is a well-marked but strenuous trail. You should be able to reach the beautiful Giant Reclining Buddha under a large rock in about half an hour. This is where things start to get a little harder but you are almost reaching the summit!
Things are gonna get tough after passing here.
Reclining Buddha
Please also beware of low hanging branches. On our way down, we pass a lady who knocked into one! Her cut was quite deep and a patch of her hair was gone! omgosh. We pass on some of our medicated supplies to them too. Therefore, i must stress it is always important to bring along first aid on trips like this. Basics like Betadine, alcohol swipes, antiseptic cream etc.
Beware low branches.
After passing the reclining Buddha, there is no clearly defined path nor route. We were lucky to have our tuk tuk driver with us who so happily guide us through. I definitely would not recommend elderly or the disabled at attempting this. Right before the summit, you will come to this messy collection of boulders stacked on top of each other. You will need to scale this huge boulder and then crawl and creep through these tight crevices between the boulder to emerge victorious, from the other side.
Once you have come through, you will be greeted with a spectacular view of the surrounding with Sirigiya Rock standing tall in a distance.
Doggie came up to enjoy the breeze too.
Breathtaking
Us with our friendly guide
Top of Pidurangala is a gentle sloped plateau
HELPPPPP!
After getting down from Pidurangala, our tuk tuk driver drove us somewhere across a huge lake where we can view both rocks unobstructed. The view was amazing. And most shocking thing of all was, people were happy bathing in the lake and they could still point excitedly to me… The crocodile perched in a distance across the lake. (☉_☉)
Pidurangala & Sigiriya
Sun bathing Croc
A Naga Buddha statue near Pidurangala. This is interesting because i have always thought snakes were depicted as evil in mythologies and folklore yet here, it is protecting the Buddha from rain and storm.
Back to our lodge
Cost for the day
Tuk tuk hire for the day
LKR5000
Polonnaruwa Admission
USD25 per pax
Priyamali Gedara (Lunch)
No. 1595 Bendiwewa, Jayanthipura, Polonnaruwa
+94 071 7216480
LKR800 per pax.
With a can of luncheon and a shake of pepper 